Surf Lessons have been a bucket list item of mine for about 10 years, and two days ago I got to give surfing a try. It was every bit as fun as I had imagined.
Josh and I started out on these gigantic foam boards in wetsuits. The idea is that the extra foam supports your weight better and the extra width and length makes it a bit easier to balance. After a few minutes of instruction our instructor took us out into the waves.
We were pretty bad.
I may have stood up on second try, but it was not for long.
For a while I struggled and fought with the large foam board, but I realized pretty quickly that I couldn’t really get my arms around it. More energy was going into lugging the thing around than anything else. So, I swapped the board out for a narrower, shorter, and much lighter board which the instructor told me would be more difficult.
He was definitely right.
It wasn’t just harder, it took a completely different way of situating myself to get up.
But I started to get the hang of it, and I realized that the wetsuit was not only making me hot but was keeping me from moving freely. Heading in to the shore, I stripped down to my trunks and went back out. After a few more minutes I started to catch the wave a little better and managed to get up a few times for longer and longer each time.
After I felt like I had just started to really enjoy myself and not fight the surf so much, it was time to head in.
I’m still not proficient by any means, but I’m looking forward to my next trip.